Travel: JAMA MASJID AT DELHI

Jama Masjid

Vini and I took yet another cycle rickshaw from Red Fort Jama Masjid. It was a fair distance, first travelling through the main road to the interior road that was an upward slope.

Incidentally, Jama Masjid is a large mosque, built by Emperor Shah Jahan in the seventeenth century. Click here to read more on its history.

The entrance to Jama Masjid

The road winded upwards for a while before we came to Jama Masjid, an imposing structure. There was tight security at the entrance here same as every place in Delhi. A wide staircase climbed up to the mosque. We went up only to be told that the evening prayer was going on. We had to wait for some time before we were allowed to enter.

There was a group of six people from Canberra, Australia, who were also waiting to go inside Jama Masjid. We struck a conversation with them in the interim. The group was on its way to Manali the next day. We clicked some pictures of the outside and waited for the prayer session to get over.

A view from above

It was about 20 minutes before we could go inside after leaving our shoes at the entrance. A man charged us Rs. 200 for carrying our camera inside and gave us a receipt of sorts for the same. I am 100% sure that he was making a fool of us. But we could not do much as he insisted that we pay up and there was nobody around to whom we could make enquiries. I was keen to take pictures and hence we paid up, just as other groups around us.

At the mosque

The mosque is basically a large square with a square pond in the centre. There were domes and minarets all around that were simply awesome. Some kids were feeding the pigeons there – must have been hundreds of pigeons. The pigeons rose up in the air when a couple of kids ran at them. It was an amazing sight and I managed to capture that on my camera.

Pigeons take flight

We walked around, seeing the place in the setting sun. I felt a strong sense of peace steal over me as we went around this historical place of worship. Millions and millions of people must have prayed within these precincts and the energy could be felt strongly. Jama Masjid is a beautiful place and a must visit in Delhi.

Click here to see more pictures of Jama Masjid. 

Vini praying at Jama Masjid

Travel: A VISIT TO THE RED FORT

Cycle Rickshaw to The Red Fort

We took a cycle rickshaw from Chandni Chowk to The Red Fort. We had no idea of what the trip would involve and the time required for a visit to Lal Qila in Old Delhi.

At the entrance

We took a number of photos from the outside, having no clue that there was a lot to see within. It was already 4 pm. I waited outside while Vinitha went down a few steps to buy the entry tickets. She called me after 10 minutes to ask me to come down too.

In front of the Lal Qila

Vinitha was standing in a queue. We had to deposit our bags there, I believe. It looked like it would take us at least half-an-hour just to get into the fort and maybe a couple of hours to look around. That’s when we decided to forget the whole thing. Vini got out of the queue and we came out. We took a few more pictures and left the place to go to Jama Masjid.

Pigeons on the grounds at the front of The Red Fort

A bit of history, thanks to wikipedia.org 

The Red Fort or Lal Qila was built by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan and the construction took ten years to complete, beginning in 1638 and finishing in 1648. The Red Fort has been declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. The fort lies along the Yamuna River, which fed the moats that surround most of the wall.

The entrance to The Red Fort. You can see the dried up moat

For those interested:

1. The Red Fort is open for visitors from Tuesday to Sunday. Monday is a holiday.
2. Tickets cost Rs. 10 for Indians and Rs. 150 for foreigners.
3. Timing: 9.30 am to 4.30 pm for entry
4. There is a Sound & Light show that is considered quite popular here. This is conducted in Hindi and English. Click here for details of tickets and timings. My advice is to call the number mentioned in the link before visiting as the ticket rates and timings may change.
5. Bags need to be deposited at the ticket counter.
6. You can take your camera inside The Red Fort and need not pay extra for the same.

Click here to see more pictures of Red Fort

That's Vini wearing the nylon moushtache & beard that was sold at the gates

Food Review: PARANTHE GALLI @ CHANDNI CHOWK

Paranthe Galli @ Chandni Chowk

If you are a hygiene freak, then this place is definitely not for you. But what the hell, it’s a once-in-a-lifetime experience

I have heard of Chandni Chowk in Bollywood films. The one that I recall instantly is Kabhi Khushi Kabhi Gham – Kajol’s character lives at Chandni Chowk.

A variety of curries, chutneys & salad

Being quite fascinated with the idea of visiting Chandni Chowk, I went along with Vinitha as she took me to Paranthe Galli at Chandni Chowk that is quite famous for the parathas served.

What I saw of Chandni Chowk were narrow streets teeming with pedestrians, cycle rickshaws, hand-carts loaded with goods and some motor-bikes vying with the lot. I have been to similar areas at Kalbadevi in Mumbai and Kothavalchavadi in Chennai. The streets at Chandni Chowk are the narrowest of the lot.

Mattar filling

We managed to walk through a few of them before we reached Paranthe Galli. We crossed many wholesale shops selling wedding refinery, dress materials, saris and a whole lot of other things on our way.

The weather was extremely cold and we were glad to reach the small eateries that had stoves at their entrances where the parathas were being fried – yeah, you read right. They deep-fry the parathas here. There are a number of these paratha outlets next to each other. All are busy with a roaring business.

The parathas being made

We had to wait for a few minutes before a table got free. Tables and chairs were crammed into a tiny area and they were all continuously running full. I saw a number of office-goers and students eating at the outlet that we went to.

The deal here is that you are given a plate with three curries and two chutneys – theeka, meetha – along with salad. These are unlimited. It is compulsory that you order 2 parathas per plate. They don’t mind if two people share a plate.



There was a wide variety of parathas – mattar, mooli, hari-mirch, cauli-flower, cheese (this was actually cottage cheese aka paneer), mixed vegetable and many more options. The parathas ranged from Rs. 40 to Rs. 60 depending on the filling. There is no separate charge for the curries and chutneys that are served on the plate. The combo was unbeatable.

Delicious & Cool Sweet Lassi

Moreover, they are ready to serve a mudka full of cool sweet lassi from across the street. This was simply delicious.

The parathas came fast – yummy and hot in the cold weather. Vinitha and I managed to gobble five parathas between us as we were very hungry after walking around a lot.

We moved out fast as there were a few more people waiting to get inside.

On your next trip to Delhi, don’t miss a chance to taste the parathas at Paranthe Galli at Chandni Chowk.

A word of caution: The area is not considered very safe after sunset.

Travel: SWAMINARAYAN TEMPLE AT AKSHARDHAM

Pic courtesy: http://www.akshardham.com

I was very keen to visit Akshardham as I had been totally floored by the pictures I had seen of the temple and it surroundings that have been going around the internet.

Vini and I took the Metro Blue Line that passes through Karol Bagh and takes us directly to Akshardham. One needs to take the Metro line that is going towards Noida City Centre. This is the metro line that goes from Dwarka Sector 21 to Noida City Centre.

We got out of Akshardham Metro Station after checking out huge posters of the temple around the station complex. Taking a cycle rickshaw, we reached the temple complex in ten minutes.

The posters that greet you at Akshardham Metro Station

This was on a Thursday and despite being a week day, there were a number of Indians and foreigners visiting the place. There were also many school students who had come there for a day’s visit.

While the whole area is squeaky clean, there are some strictures that need to be followed.

This scene greets you when you enter the compound. The small building on the left is where you deposit your bags.
On the right is the queue that takes you inside. You can notice the temple tower in the far background.

What IS ALLOWED inside the complex:

1. Water bottle
2. Wallet
3. Shoes

What IS NOT ALLOWED inside the complex:

1. Camera
2. Mobile
3. Any kind of bag – handbag, back-pack, etc
4. Laptop
5. Any kind of electronic equipment

There is a counter where one can deposit these items and take a numbered token. The service is free of cost. I have to mention here that the system is amazingly orchestrated without long queues. I can only say that the people working there are super-efficient.

Inside the main temple. Pic courtesy: http://www.akshardham.com

You are asked to fill a form with complete name and address. They take it along with your bag and click your picture with all electronics removed from the bag and placed on display. That is, the picture will have you, your bag and your electronic equipment. It serves the purpose of security as well as keeping your stuff safe and ensuring that you get it correctly without having to wait. Good show!

I was extremely disappointed that I could not take my camera in, but then that’s how it was. We also did not bother with our wallets as the entry was free. We got to know later that there was a Rs. 170 charge for seeing the exhibition. At the end of our visit, we were quite glad that we did not make the mistake of purchasing this ticket.

They have very clean and neat washroom facilities with running water, again free of cost. Impressive!

This structure shaped like a lotus is simply gorgeous. Pic courtesy: http://www.delhispider.com

We entered the complex and walked a good length to reach the actual temple premises. The walk was beautiful, the weather cold with a weak sun shining on us. We passed through an area with lots of greenery and fountains that were soothing to the eye.

Then we entered the Akshardham office where we got to know of exactly what all things are on offer here. That’s when I realized that one needs at least 5-6 hours to see the whole place and check out all its attractions.

My advice is that one can break it up into 2-3 trips if one has the time as taking it all in at one go might be quite overwhelming.

The main sanctorum with a gold idol of Swaminarayan. Pic courtesy: http://www.akshardham.com

Sandstone and marble have been used throughout. There was the peacock gate that had so many peacocks in different shapes, sizes and poses. It was truly commendable. Vini and I walked quite slowly trying to absorb everything.

Then there was this small square pond with giant-sized sacred feet of Swaminarayan. People were throwing coins into this pond. We walked a bit further to reach the actual temple. Here, they had provision for leaving our shoes behind. Again, this service was free of cost and well-orchestrated.

Elephant idols around the first prahar - this one is of Irawat, the celestial elephant belonging to Lord Indra. Pic courtesy: http://www.akshardham.com

We had to climb about 40 steps to the sanctorum. The carvings were simply gorgeous. But as you keep looking around, soon you kind of feel blinded by the grandeur. Usually, what have a soothing effect on one at a temple are the many pillars that depict a synchronization that calms the mind. Here, there were more than hundred pillars holding together many arched ceilings, forming mandaps. Every one of them had a different set of carvings that kind of had a jarring effect on my nerves. The main sanctorum itself was built in the lines of a Buddha Vihar and was extremely flamboyant – with marble, gold embellishment and even semi-precious stones in the carvings. I would go so far as to say that it was ‘overkill’.

I believe that a visit to a temple should bring about peace into one’s being. A treat of art and culture, most definitely yes!

Gaumukh spouting water around the third prahar - there are 108 of them. Pic courtesy: http://www.akshardham.com

Here, there was just toooooooo much. The immediate prahar outside has elephant carvings. Vini refused to walk with me as she was already overflowing with too much. I walked around quite fast as I could understand most of the elephant scenes that were depicted from tales that I have heard from my grandparents. But for a novice, it is bound to be mind-blowing, literally.

There were a couple of more prahars that we did not go around as we were already tired and overwhelmed. That’s when we both felt happy that we had not bought tickets for the spiritual exhibition. We were also quite hungry by then as we had been there for over three hours. We left after collecting our bags, left rather unsatisfied with the experience.

For visitors:

1. Metro Blue Line to Akshardham Station is the closest metro point to the temple.
2. Bags, camera, mobile or any electronic equipment a strict No-No.
3. Entry to the temple is free of cost.
4. Rs. 170 is charged for the exhibition inside – this consists of a film on the Neelkanth, musical fountain, a boat-ride and more. This will be a duration of 2½ hours.
5. Food is available for purchase inside the complex along with bottled water.
6. Drinking water taps are there and so also clean washroom facilities.
7. Late evening will probably be a great time to visit as the lighting is supposedly amazing.
8. The temple opens at 9.30 am while the last entry into the complex is at 6.30 pm. You will need 2-3 hours to see just the complex without the exhibition.
9. It probably will make sense to get the whole experience in 2 to 3 trips as there is just too much to absorb.
10. If you want to catch the maximum at one go, then probably its best that you land up there between 2 and 3 pm. That way, you see everything and don’t miss out on the lighting experience in the late evening.
11. They are closed on Mondays.

Website: http://www.akshardham.com 

Travel: A VISIT TO INDIA GATE

India Gate

HAPPY REPUBLIC DAY!

I was alone at the time of my visit to India Gate. Vini had been very keen on accompanying me as she is extremely attached to this monument. But she had been working the whole day while I had completed my visit to Baha’i Temple and came to Rajiv Chowk Metro at 3 pm.

I had lunch at 4 pm at McDonald’s in Central Park. I had originally planned to visit Jantar Mantar but I found that I had no energy for three more hours of sightseeing. That’s when I decided to take a rickshaw to India Gate. The Sardar who was driving the rickshaw was very nice and told me that I cannot get too close to India Gate due to tight security.

In front of India Gate

I realized yet again that whatever happens, happens for the best. The security was too tight there in preparation of Republic Day Celebrations (I visited India Gate on January 20, 2012). Rajpath was closed for minor repairs and I could not take the historical walk down that path. In fact, I could see India Gate from a distance of about 200 metres as the area was cordoned off due to security reasons. Vini was finally glad that she had not bothered to come amidst her busy schedule.

It was terrifically cold and I could feel the bite through my sweater and jacket. I hung around there for about half-an-hour as there was a chance that Vini might join me. In fact, an old security guard sounded worried when he asked me whether I was waiting for someone. He also kindly advised me that I should go home as it was so cold. I had a cup of hot tea, clicked some pictures, requested someone to take a picture of me in front of the monument and left. I took another rickshaw back to the hotel as I was too cold to bother looking for a metro station.

A bit of history on India Gate thanks to Wikipedia.org:

Amar Jawan Jyoti &
the Canopy behind it

The India Gate is situated in the heart of Delhi and had been built in 1931 during the British Raj. It had been designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens. The structure is made of red and pale sandstone along with granite. The India Gate used to be called the All India War Memorial in those days and it had been built to commemorate the 90,000 plus soldiers belonging to the Indian Army who had lost their lives fighting during the World War I and the Third Anglo-Afghan War.

After Independence, the India Gate came to be symbolized as Amar Jawan Jyoti (the flame of the immortal soldier).

Amar Jawan Jyoti

Burning in a shrine under the arch of India Gate since 1971 is the Amar Jawan Jyoti that marks the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. The shrine itself is a black marble cenotaph surmounted by a rifle standing on its barrel and crested by a soldier's helmet. This cenotaph is placed on a pedestal with four continuously burning torches on its corners.

On every Republic Day, January 26, the Prime Minister pays homage to the country's fallen soldiers along with Heads of Armed Forces, before joining the annual parade at the Rajpath. The flags represent the 3 branches of the Indian armed forces - Army, Navy and Air Force.

Standing behind the gate is an empty canopy made out of sandstone, inspired by an 18th century Mahabalipuram pavilion.

India Gate. Doesn't it look gorgeous?

Travel: HOTEL JEWEL PALACE @ KAROL BAGH, DELHI

The hotel front

While at Delhi, my daughter and I stayed at Hotel Jewel Palace at Karol Bagh. Luckily for me, it is not very far from New Delhi station. While the cab-driver was keen on charging me a bomb, I persuaded him to accept just half the fare.

Hotel Jewel Palace is a neat and comfortable hotel in the heart of the city and quite affordable. You can find details of tariff on their website mentioned below. The package includes bed and breakfast. What I really appreciated was the heater in the bedroom and piping hot water in the bathroom. I don’t think I would have survived this trip without those.

The sofas with a coffee table and the corner table with a lamp

The service is excellent with the waiters doing their best to please without hovering around to the point of irritation.

We enter a medium-sized lobby where they insist on seeing our identity proof. I believe an address proof is a must. I got away with using my Pan Card, but one might need to get used to travelling with their passport even within India, it looks like.

Our room was on the first floor and it was quite big by city standards. I was thoroughly pleased with the huge single beds and wardrobe facilities. There were also a number of big mirrors in the room. There were a number of lights to make the room quite bright and welcoming.

Totally comfy

One corner was taken by a twin-seater and triple-seater sofas placed adjacent to each other with a large coffee table in front of them. There was also a corner table.

Breakfast is usually served in the restaurant but can also be ordered in the room.

All in all, it was perfect for my short holiday in the capital and made for a great temporary home.

Food Review of the hotel will follow…

Details of the hotel for those interested:

Hotel Jewel Palace,
2622-24, Bank street,
Karol Bagh,
New Delhi - 110005
(Behind Karol Bagh Police Station)
Phone: 91-11-45950000
Email: info@hoteljewelpalace.com / naranggmhjp@yahoo.co.in
Website: http://www.hoteljewelpalace.com

Travel: TO RAJDHANI BY RAJDHANI

Evening Snack

I have been around in Maharashtra on short trips to Lonavla, Mahabaleshwar, Panchgani, Matheran, Shirdi, Deolali, Nasik, Pune, Lavasa, Khopoli and a couple of other places that I am unable to recall. Otherwise, I tend to take off to Chennai most of the time as my parents and sisters live there. Apart from a few trips to temples in the south, and trips to Hyderabad and Bangalore as a kid, I have not travelled much.

Pic courtesy: Indian Railways

I forgot to mention the trip to Singapore that was a class apart.

I got this wonderful chance to go to Delhi this week, and that too by Mumbai Rajdhani Express. I got to know from my sister Sujatha that this is the best of all the Rajdhani trains that connect to Delhi from various parts of the country. Yippee!

I left on January 17, 2012 on the B-4 compartment. The train looked beautiful and I was very impressed with the 3-tire A/C compartment. The toilets were very clean and the service commendable.

More than anything, they fed us almost non-stop. The train left at 4.40pm – perfect time of departure – and they gave us newspapers to read. Soon after, we were served with evening snack. There was a cheese sandwich triangle – it was huge – along with ketchup; hot kachori; vanilla-chocolate mawa cake and a tetra pack of fruit juice – all served stylishly on a tray. I have to commend Ghasitaram’s for the yummy food throughout the journey.

Hot tomato soup with breadsticks

Then there was coffee or tea, as you please. I would like to mention here that I prefer the old method of serving beverages – readymade coffee or tea in flasks, perfectly made.

In this instance, they gave us a paper cup along with a packet that contained sachets of coffee, sugar, milk powder and a plastic stirrer along with a flask of hot water. Well, it was not my cup of coffee.

About an hour later, we were served hot tomato soup along with beautifully packed breadsticks that were oh-so-fresh. And there were packets of Amul Butter, salt & pepper too.

Before we could fully digest this, along came dinner. This consisted of rotis (2, I think. I passed these on to another passenger as there was no space in my tummy); salad; paneer mattar; yellow dal; vegetable rice; a container of dahi and pickle. The food was hot and tasty. The dahi from Mahanand Dairy was simply delicious. The food was a feather in Indian Railways’ cap! It was a big wonder for one who has travelled the most by train in the Mumbai-Chennai route where the food served is pathetic. Believe me, I have experienced it over the past more than four decades. The food served only gets worse with time.

Dinner

We finished the dinner when the waiter smilingly brought forth Strawberry Ice-cream. If their plan was to kill us with food, they were on their way to success.

The morning began with breakfast – mine was hot upma and 2 slices of bread with packets of butter and jam along with another tetra pack of fruit juice. Believe me, this was a 7 am as the train was due to arrive at New Delhi station at 8.40 am.

The coffee came after that. I was happy to give my stomach a break after that as the train was a couple of hours late and we had a food-free time over that period.

Good journey to the Capital of India! I really looked forward to my trip.

RETURN TRIP BY RAJDHANI EXPRESS:

I have to mention here that while the train was the same, the food was not as good on the return trip. The food was provided by Bikanervala. The service was not the best as the staff did not bother to heat most of the items. I refused to pay him a tip this time while I had tipped the waiter liberally on my onward journey.

I was also disappointed that the menu was identical to the one before. Can’t they have a variation?